RACE FACE 2 RINGS FOR KONA SATORI

For 2x10 drivetrain
Uncommon bolt pattern for the big ring (38t). BCD 120
Granny is 26t
Sticker code for the pack is:

Chris King 142x12 hub and Stan's Flow Ex rim 29 spoke length 32h

32h 3 cross for Chris King 142x12 hub and Stan's Flow Ex rim 29 spoke length

NEXT BUILD I WILL TRY spokes 191mm on both sides.
THE BUILD BELOW HAD 190 and 191mm spokes. A little too tight when lacing

Building costs:

Components bought from Universal cycles

Hub: about 360
Rim: 95USD or so
Spokes and nipples about 40USD
Yellow tape about 12USD
Rim strip about 12USD

Most difficult thing: radial truing of Stan's rim when building

Does the fork leak oil?

One trick I use when I change oil in the fork is to stick some paper towels at the bottom (after the assembly) and leave the fork overnight.
If paper towels are dry the next day then the assembly most likely was properly done and the fork is not leaky.

I find it important to change the oil in such a way that the fork is left overnight before riding.

I remove paper towels before the ride the next day.

Another useful trick is to put a little bit of Slickoleum on the end of the stanchions before sliding lowers on them. This way the lip of dust seal does not roll inwards. Try and see!

Here is the picture:

Components that are reliable on the Shore

This is the list of the components that worked very well for me in wet/dry conditions on the North Shore.

"Worked well" is defined as having survived at least a year of riding

1. Chromag OSX bar
2. X7, X9 rear derailleurs
3. Gravity dropper turbo LP (6 months and going strong)
4. SLX double crank with a Bash
5. ODI Troy Lee grips
6. Hope Pro 2 Evo Front hub 
7. Mavic 719 rim
8. WTB Pure-V saddle
9. 5.10 Approach shoes -very durable for flat pedal use
10. Deity Decoy pedals- very very good for the wet Shore

Practical Suggestion changing brake pads

I always change brake pads one wheel at a time, then go for a ride and then change the other set. Why?

When you change one set of pads you know for sure that at least one brake will work right away and such fuzzy feeling of at least some sense of security is hard to beat.

When you change both sets of pads, at least for some time you are brake-less or the brakes response will be weak.

Best and Economical 29er rear wheel 142 x 12 for a heavy guy

29er rear wheels are expensive, very expensive. IF you are heavy, less than 32 spokes- you will regret it, quickly.
How get a wheel for  $350 or a bit less? You build it.

Dt Swiss 350 hub disc for $200 142x12 Disc
Flow EX rim $100
Spokes 290 Drive side, 292 Non-Drive Side $50

Tensiometer value on DS -around 15
Tensiometer value on NDS- around 12

Tension Correction JULY 7, 2013 after about a month of riding: 
Spoke tension increased to 20 on drive side and 19 on non drive side.
The hub works great and it is still quiet!

Picture of all the needed values for building this wheel:

Disclaimer: This is all personal experience, do it at your own risk as this info is given for information purposes only for myself and my family. The author assumes no responsibility whatsoever, consult professional wheel builders as badly built wheel is a recipe for disaster.  

Dt Swiss hubs are great in that there is almost no rolling resistance, there are no pawls to break by your and my clyde weight and the Flow wide profile gives a very comfortable feel.

Rear hub selection enter DT SWISS 350

I tried: Shimano XT, Hope pro Evo and Easton hubs. I an a heavy guy.

From now on my main hub selection criterion - the hub should have a ratchet mechanism, no pawls. Period.