TOTAL @@RAP for heavy guys
Spoke length rear driveside 290mm
Saturday, June 1, 2013
X7 replacement rings
I wore out teeth on my 2x10 X7 crank in 3 months.
I learned that the outer ring
"is wider 4 bolt pattern, it is 120mm BCD instead of the usual 104mm BCD.
I need 38t outer and 26t granny for my X7 crank on Kona Satori
I decided to try Race face chainrings for Turbine Crank:
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=51162
I learned that the outer ring
"is wider 4 bolt pattern, it is 120mm BCD instead of the usual 104mm BCD.
I need 38t outer and 26t granny for my X7 crank on Kona Satori
I decided to try Race face chainrings for Turbine Crank:
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=51162
GRANNY 80mm x 26t (Black)-Mfg#:RRT1080X26BLK -works great, after a month of riding no problems of any kind!
OUTER RING 120mm x 38t (Black) Mfg#:RRT10120X38BLK
Tuesday, March 26, 2013
SECTOR RL FORK 26"
Just installed SECTOR RL 26" fork by Rock Shox.
Tip: Always check oil in the lowers and the damper before using a new fork.
This particular fork had only 3 drops of oil in both lowers combined! (15w oil)
Foam rings were dry!
In the damper there were 100cc of suspension oil (5w oil) vs advertized 125.
125 cc did not fit in the damper, very strange! Nowhere for a Sector fork the damper volume is advertized in 100cc.
Moral: always check fluids in your new fork before using it. You may be surprised!
Tip: Always check oil in the lowers and the damper before using a new fork.
This particular fork had only 3 drops of oil in both lowers combined! (15w oil)
Foam rings were dry!
In the damper there were 100cc of suspension oil (5w oil) vs advertized 125.
125 cc did not fit in the damper, very strange! Nowhere for a Sector fork the damper volume is advertized in 100cc.
Moral: always check fluids in your new fork before using it. You may be surprised!
Labels:
mountain biking,
mtb,
rock shox,
rockshox,
Sector fork
Thursday, March 21, 2013
Cleaning the bike, not washing the bike!
When the bike is dirty what do you do? Wash it, right? Bad idea!
The best way to clean your bike is:
The best way to clean your bike is:
- Let it dry
- Use a BRUSH to clean it
- When you clean it with a brush you may also see what repairs/adjustments (if any) have to be done
Labels:
clean the bike,
kona,
Kona satori,
mountain biking
Sunday, March 17, 2013
Priming syringe for fork oil change
If the syringe has a long tube (attachment), hot to make sure you get the right amount of oil?
- Disconnect any extension tube you may need to push the oil into the fork hole (eg. Rock Shox Revelation). Fill the syringe with MORE fork oil than you need. Intentionally more so!
- Attache the tube. Push on the plunger until oil level aligns with the mark indicating the amount that you need. You are done!
Tuesday, February 26, 2013
DUAL AIR NEGATIVE POSITIVE CHAMBER EXPLAINED
HERE IS THE DIAGRAM THAT EXPLAINS DUAL AIR- NEGATIVE POSITIVE CHAMBER OF THE AIR SPRING
1. The problem with air spring is that unlike coil, it does not return to Zero energy state.
If you initially pumped 130 psi in the positive chamber of the fork (the valve is at the top facing
the rider) you will still have these 130 psi when the fork or shock fully returns. Coild spring will
have zero pressure as it fully returns. Therefore with air spring the return will be harsh and abrupt
2. Therefore we need a cushion that will make the return softer, something has to slow down this
return, some counteracting force must be introduced for the gentle full return to happen.
3. Enter the cushion or negative chamber (the valve is at the bottom of the left leg of the fork. As the
spring returns it "hits" an "obstacle", a cushion, like your face hitting an airbag, making the impact
(extension) less violent.
4. More pressure in the negative chamber makes this "cushion" bigger shortening the legs reducing
fork available travel. Big fat cushion make riding "softer" for some.
5. For big guys it seems that it is better to have a little bit more pressure (10 psi or so) in the positive
chamber compared to the negative one.
6. Some say that such DUAL AIR fork will work better if in general the difference in pressure in
positive and negative chambers is small (10 psi or so).
7. My numbers so far: rider weight 240. Positive chamber pressure 130 psi, negative chamber
pressure 110 psi. I will tweak it from there.
8. To set the rebound, dial the knob so that the ride is a POGO STICK. After that little by little turn it
so it becomes comfortably soft but not too soft. For rear shock ride off the curb and the suspension
should bounce only once!
Now the diagram:
1. The problem with air spring is that unlike coil, it does not return to Zero energy state.
If you initially pumped 130 psi in the positive chamber of the fork (the valve is at the top facing
the rider) you will still have these 130 psi when the fork or shock fully returns. Coild spring will
have zero pressure as it fully returns. Therefore with air spring the return will be harsh and abrupt
2. Therefore we need a cushion that will make the return softer, something has to slow down this
return, some counteracting force must be introduced for the gentle full return to happen.
3. Enter the cushion or negative chamber (the valve is at the bottom of the left leg of the fork. As the
spring returns it "hits" an "obstacle", a cushion, like your face hitting an airbag, making the impact
(extension) less violent.
4. More pressure in the negative chamber makes this "cushion" bigger shortening the legs reducing
fork available travel. Big fat cushion make riding "softer" for some.
5. For big guys it seems that it is better to have a little bit more pressure (10 psi or so) in the positive
chamber compared to the negative one.
6. Some say that such DUAL AIR fork will work better if in general the difference in pressure in
positive and negative chambers is small (10 psi or so).
7. My numbers so far: rider weight 240. Positive chamber pressure 130 psi, negative chamber
pressure 110 psi. I will tweak it from there.
8. To set the rebound, dial the knob so that the ride is a POGO STICK. After that little by little turn it
so it becomes comfortably soft but not too soft. For rear shock ride off the curb and the suspension
should bounce only once!
Now the diagram:
Saturday, February 16, 2013
Basics of body position
Here is the most important idea about body position:
Butt back, chest down! (chin over the stem, same idea whether you stand or sit, no round back, do not hunch, chest pushes towards top tube)
When you are in attack position, check that your chin is over the stem! You should not feel like you have weight on the handlebars. The weight is held by the core and legs, not your hands and arms. Don't round the back but engage lats. Chest pushes towards top tube
Elbows out is the "side effect" of good body position that happens by itself as you assume a good body position, it is not a goal in itself
Here is a link to this (last video on the list)
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Improve-Your-Body-Position-100-in-30-Days-Blueprint-2013.html
Butt back, chest down! (chin over the stem, same idea whether you stand or sit, no round back, do not hunch, chest pushes towards top tube)
When you are in attack position, check that your chin is over the stem! You should not feel like you have weight on the handlebars. The weight is held by the core and legs, not your hands and arms. Don't round the back but engage lats. Chest pushes towards top tube
Elbows out is the "side effect" of good body position that happens by itself as you assume a good body position, it is not a goal in itself
Here is a link to this (last video on the list)
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Improve-Your-Body-Position-100-in-30-Days-Blueprint-2013.html
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