Components that are reliable on the Shore

This is the list of the components that worked very well for me in wet/dry conditions on the North Shore.

"Worked well" is defined as having survived at least a year of riding

1. Chromag OSX bar
2. X7, X9 rear derailleurs
3. Gravity dropper turbo LP (6 months and going strong)
4. SLX double crank with a Bash
5. ODI Troy Lee grips
6. Hope Pro 2 Evo Front hub 
7. Mavic 719 rim
8. WTB Pure-V saddle
9. 5.10 Approach shoes -very durable for flat pedal use
10. Deity Decoy pedals- very very good for the wet Shore

Practical Suggestion changing brake pads

I always change brake pads one wheel at a time, then go for a ride and then change the other set. Why?

When you change one set of pads you know for sure that at least one brake will work right away and such fuzzy feeling of at least some sense of security is hard to beat.

When you change both sets of pads, at least for some time you are brake-less or the brakes response will be weak.

SECTOR RL FORK 26"

Just installed SECTOR RL 26" fork by Rock Shox.

Tip: Always check oil in the lowers and the damper before using a new fork.
This particular fork had only 3 drops of oil in both lowers combined! (15w oil)
Foam rings were dry!
In the damper there were 100cc of suspension oil (5w oil) vs advertized 125.
125 cc did not fit in the damper, very strange! Nowhere for a Sector fork the damper volume is advertized in 100cc.


Moral: always check fluids in your new fork before using it. You may be surprised!

Cleaning the bike, not washing the bike!

When the bike is dirty what do you do? Wash it, right? Bad idea!
The best way to clean your bike is:

• Let it dry
• Use a BRUSH to clean it
• When you clean it with a brush you may also see what repairs/adjustments (if any) have to be done

Washing the bike is bad and is for the lazy!

Reducing the height of the drop by getting small and extending legs

I found this picture on pink bike . What does it illustrate?
If you watch the amazing DVD created by Simon from "Fluid Ride", you will notice:

• getting small before the drop and with the subsequent leg extension erasing the height of the drop by quite a bit
• subsequent leg extension from being very small allows you to dictate bike placement on landing and not just sitting on top of it as an ejection seat
• basic technique: correct timing, hips back creating pressure on the palms of the hands preventing front wheel dipping
• linear helmet travel on the diagonal as per "racer style" explanation by Simon

What is "BRAVE" when facing an obstacle?

My definition of being "BRAVE" when facing an obstacle is very specific:

1. You must allow the bike to roll.
2. Be brave by approaching an obstacle in neutral position (no matter how scary that might be) and then let the bike dictate how much back you will move as the bike TRAVELS OVER THE OBSTACLE

As to item one, let it roll, don't touch the brakes, the bike can roll some really steep terrain if you LET IT ROLL and DON'T INTERFERE with its TRAVEL.

As to item two, don't move back before the obstacle because it sounds safer to do so. Assume neutral LOW LOW LOW position as you approach an obstacle and AS YOU TRAVEL over the obstacle, let the bike DICTATE how much back IT WANTS YOU TO MOVE

MOST SIGNIFICANT TIP: Dynamic Pedal when cornering (Steering with inside knee: opening the Inside turn knee, dipping outside turn pedal)

Tried it on May 11, 2012. I will corner always like the info below from now on. It is an amazing tip that works!

I ride right foot forward.
The tip in the video suggests: When cornering open the inside knee (which is unweighs this side of the bike) and as the result of such opening, the OUTSIDE PEDAL will be dipped a bit.
When I turn left: open the left knee- the right foot (pedal) will move forward and down.
When I turn right: open the  right knee- the left foot (pedal) will move back and down.
Just like skiing! Man, this tip works!!!

Hip Protection

Disclaimer: These tips are for the blog author, pls seek professional instruction as this sport may be dangerous!


There is no absolute protection!

I learned that despite the fact that I wear padded shorts, there is no protection against hitting the hip point. All the padding happens to be below the waist line and I flew over the handlebar and acquired a spectacular bruise right where hip bone sticks out.
Interestingly, only few padded shorts manufacturers address this issue and I don't know how practical their solutions are in terms of not bothering the rider in the sitting position.
Therefore something to keep in mind: there is no absolute protection for everything.

Less immediately known to a biginner things that come loose

1. The bolt that hold rear derailleur (was very loose after a year of riding, I discovered it by accident)
2. The bolt that holds rear derailleur hanger (when I take the rear wheel off, I tend to check it)
3. The pivot bolt that is behind the bottom bracket (watch for this one!)

Disclaimer: These tips are for the blog author, pls seek professional instruction as this sport may be dangerous!

Cornering- my formula

Disclaimer: These tips are for the blog author, pls seek professional instruction as this sport may be dangerous!

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Video-of-the-Year-Winner-is-2012.html
In the picture above one can see correct body position while cornering (hips are rotated and offset to the side, shoulders and belly button turned into the corner, high outside elbow, bike is leaning into the corner.

I noticed it is hard for me to remember and cycle in my brain through BRAKE-ROTATE-LOOK-LEAN mantra.
So here is my simplified one and it is all about STEERING WITH BELLY BUTTON:

Belly Button- High outside elbow

You look with all "three eyes" (belly button being one, then you think about high outside elbow (e.g if you turn left, I should have right elbow bent and high.

Rationale:
When you turn with the belly button, this move rotates your hips, shoulders and offsets the rear part of the body. This also forces me to look in the right direction.
High  outside elbow will force me to lean the bike.
I will not forget to adjust the speed before I do all of the above because...I really don't want to fall!

So new mantra is again

Belly Button- High outside elbow- and as of May 11, 2012  Dynamic pedals

Fast cornering

Disclaimer: These tips are for the blog author, pls seek professional instruction as this sport may be dangerous!

Sequence: Brake -rotate-look-lean

I Get LOW into ready position
1.Brake to enter the turn at the right speed. Try to enter wide
2. Rotate hips and shoulders (move hips to the outside of the turn, belly button looking inside the turn). Hips and shoulders rotate in the same plane, bum sticks out to the outside of the turn
3. Look past the turn towards the exit. Don't look on front tire or directly in front.
4. Lean the bike into the turn, have outside elbow high and bent
USE DYNAMIC PEDAL IDEA !

Chest should stay low, drop heals down. Stick out high outside turn elbow

Note: For aggressive maneuver: While hips move in the opposite direction of the turn, with bum sticking out outside of the turn, upper body may lean INTO the turn

If I feel I am not making the turn, push down on the pedals to compress suspension.
This may result in two things:
a) the bike falls on the side and there is a good chance not falling with it
b) tires will bite more, turn radius will decrease and you make the turn

EB Riding Tip:

http://www.endlessbiking.com/guides.htm

Cornering tip: To develop solid cornering skills for moderate to high speed flat corners, try rotating your torso to look into the desired direction of your turn with 'all 3 eyes'. As you increase speed, get lower and lower to keep a low centre of gravity, to be able to lean the bike over farther to gain traction and maintain momentum! Have fun!

Another picture of the toughest climb on Bridal Path

Disclaimer: These tips are for the blog author, pls seek professional instruction as this sport may be dangerous!


This is the hardest climb for me.

I did it once using GRANNY gear up front and SECOND BIGGEST ring in the back ("my magic gear"). Seat post fully extended, climbing in sitting position.

"Magic gear" for climbing on Bridal Path

Disclaimer: These tips are for the blog author, pls seek professional instruction as this sport may be dangerous!

I discovered a gear combination that works practically for any kind of difficult Bridal Path terrain that requires any kind of climbing over obstacles.

It is GRANNY ring up front, SECOND BIGGEST gear in the back.

Here i one example of a little tricky rooty climb at the beginning of Suicide connector going East

Deceptively easy climb- Bridal Path going East

Disclaimer: These tips are for the blog author, pls seek professional instruction as this sport may be dangerous!


This small climb is tricky as it involves several small turns and one needs to calculate them so pedals don't hit the side roots and the log.

Successful for me gear combination: GRANNY and SECOND BIGGEST ring in the back. Did it is sitting position.

I used to do it with the MIDDLE ring and the BIGGEST ring in the back but it is less smooth and most likely I will need to stand. Too much available torque (the use of the MIDDLE ring up front) I find on such stretch is not necessarily good.

Climb going towards Golf course (East)- Bridal Path

Disclaimer: These tips are for the blog author, pls seek professional instruction as this sport may be dangerous!


It's all about gears!

I had hard time at the top of this climb turning right and going over some roots.

MIDDLE ring up front and BIGGEST in the back did not work well for me.

Successful gear combination: GRANNY and SECOND BIGGEST ring in the back.

I tried to stay to the left as much as possible before turning right and going over the roots. It worked.

I was sitting while climbing this part.

Scariest stretch on Bridal Path

Disclaimer: These tips are for the blog author, pls seek professional instruction as this sport may be dangerous!

This is where I flew over handlebar and hit the hip pointer. Result: huge painful hematoma.

Descending and making a relatively sharp turn is still the biggest weakness. So I walk biting putting a lid on the ego. Ego has no hips that may hurt after all...

Toughest climb

Disclaimer: These tips are for the blog author, pls seek professional instruction as this sport may be dangerous!


If for the long time I can't climb a certain stretch, I am most likely use the wrong gears!

This is the steepest climb on Bridal Path that finally after many months I was able to do on Dec 31, 2011.

Some guy suggested this gear combination:

GRANNY up front and the SECOND BIGGEST ring in the back.

I climbed it mostly sitting and to my biggest surprise I did it.

Until this attempt I was using the MIDDLE ring up front and the BIGGEST one in the back, no way it was doable!

Bridal Path Gears

Disclaimer: These tips are for the blog author, pls seek professional instruction as this sport may be dangerous!

So far I have been using the following gear combinations on Bridal Path, Seymour, N. Vancouver:

1. Golf Course parking lot-> Horse Loop until the "T" intersection by the fence (before the uphill section)- GRANNY and BIGGEST RING in the back.

2. For the remaining sections (with some exceptions) -MIDDLE ring up front, THE BIGGEST ring in the back.

3. For "step-like" obstacles MIDDLE ring up front, THE SECOND BIGGEST ring in the back.

4. Very steep section going East not far from the "T" on the Hyannis side (I will post a separate post with the picture) GRANNY ring up front, THE SECOND BIGGEST ring in the back. I tried to climb while sitting.

5. I will try to post pictures with "tricky" sections and the gears used.

Granny ring vs Middle ring

Disclaimer: These tips are for the blog author, pls seek professional instruction as this sport may be dangerous!


By trial and error I came up with the following:

Granny chain ring- good for climbing steep terrain where one is likely to sit all the time. This gear does not provide "torque on demand" if you stand up and it is ideal for obstacles of the type "if you stand you rear wheel will spin".

Great to use on a very steep terrain with the SECOND biggest ring in the back! You would likely to sit or hover over your seat.

Middle chain ring- good with tall obstacles where one will coordinate pedal push with a partial or full standing up motion. Also ideal for moment where short "torque on demand" burst is needed (e.g. to roll over a tall rock or root on otherwise relatively flat terrain).

Great with the BIGGEST or SECOND BIGGEST ring in the back.

WET CONDITIONS:

If the obstacle is not super steep and it is WET, I use the middle ring up front and SECOND BIGGEST in the back to avoid back wheel spinning. (during dry conditions, the BIGGEST ring in the back can be used).

For greater cardio-use middle ring up front (except for very steep terrain) and the BIGGEST or SECOND BIGGEST ring in the back.

For smooth (no bursts of energy) riding and a bit less cardio- use the granny ring up front and the BIGGEST or SECOND BIGGEST ring in the back.

Remember the pedals!

Disclaimer: These tips are for the blog author, pls seek professional instruction as this sport may be dangerous!


See more than "beating" an obstacle!

Today I was so focussed making it over a log or a root patch that I would lose awareness of what my pedals were up to. And they were hitting many things that they encountered (mainly nice rocks already scratched by other riders).

I call it riding in sync (thank you Assassin's Creed for inspiration with the term). Will your pedals hit something when you are laboring over an obstacle or on its approach to it or not? That is the question! Sometimes ratcheting back is a great way to avoid being "out of synch"