Components that are reliable on the Shore

This is the list of the components that worked very well for me in wet/dry conditions on the North Shore.

"Worked well" is defined as having survived at least a year of riding

1. Chromag OSX bar
2. X7, X9 rear derailleurs
3. Gravity dropper turbo LP (6 months and going strong)
4. SLX double crank with a Bash
5. ODI Troy Lee grips
6. Hope Pro 2 Evo Front hub 
7. Mavic 719 rim
8. WTB Pure-V saddle
9. 5.10 Approach shoes -very durable for flat pedal use
10. Deity Decoy pedals- very very good for the wet Shore

What is "BRAVE" when facing an obstacle?

My definition of being "BRAVE" when facing an obstacle is very specific:

1. You must allow the bike to roll.
2. Be brave by approaching an obstacle in neutral position (no matter how scary that might be) and then let the bike dictate how much back you will move as the bike TRAVELS OVER THE OBSTACLE

As to item one, let it roll, don't touch the brakes, the bike can roll some really steep terrain if you LET IT ROLL and DON'T INTERFERE with its TRAVEL.

As to item two, don't move back before the obstacle because it sounds safer to do so. Assume neutral LOW LOW LOW position as you approach an obstacle and AS YOU TRAVEL over the obstacle, let the bike DICTATE how much back IT WANTS YOU TO MOVE

Technique points I keep in my mind when riding these days

The key word on my mind on a downhill turn is ROTATE, just one word but occasionally also.....

1. Rotate the belly button and looking with "three eyes" when on downhill turn
2. Leaning the bike into the turn
3. Counterbalancing the leaning with the rear part as a result of belly button turn and resulting weight shift on the seat.
3. Having the outside turn elbow bent and high
4. Looking past the turn
5. Dynamic Pedal

Vertical Manual Drops

Disclaimer: These tips are for the blog author, pls seek professional instruction as this sport may be dangerous!

Manual is done by me without pedaling and in two steps:
 1. Staying low preloading down suspension the last moment before the drop pushing down on the pedals
 2. Pushing with the front foot towards the hub of the front wheel (such motion will MOVE THE BIKE FORWARD UNDER YOU and as a consequence will shift your body  back extending forward arms and legs. Do not pull up on the handlebars, the leg force towards the front hub in this step will prevent the front part of the bike from dipping). KEEP THE FRONT HEEL BENT DOWN in this step!

 Start returning to the ready position while in the air so when landed you landed low in ready position and not shifted back.

Match the bike traveling in the air with the angle of the landing area (angled the same way to match)

Pedal several bike lengths before the manual maneuver area. COAST before, during and after doing the manual.
Speed will help doing the manual and will prevent dipping of the front wheel.

PRACTICE UNTIL YOU CAN DO IT AT A VERY LOW SPEED


Manual summary: don't pedal when you are about to manual, preload suspension pushing down, push with the front foot with the dropped heel towards the front hub of the bike. This will move the bike forward and you will naturally extend arms and legs and the rear part of the body will be moved back. Don't move your body back, let it happen as a result of pushing the pedals towards the hub of the front wheel.

Cornering- my formula

Disclaimer: These tips are for the blog author, pls seek professional instruction as this sport may be dangerous!

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Video-of-the-Year-Winner-is-2012.html
In the picture above one can see correct body position while cornering (hips are rotated and offset to the side, shoulders and belly button turned into the corner, high outside elbow, bike is leaning into the corner.

I noticed it is hard for me to remember and cycle in my brain through BRAKE-ROTATE-LOOK-LEAN mantra.
So here is my simplified one and it is all about STEERING WITH BELLY BUTTON:

Belly Button- High outside elbow

You look with all "three eyes" (belly button being one, then you think about high outside elbow (e.g if you turn left, I should have right elbow bent and high.

Rationale:
When you turn with the belly button, this move rotates your hips, shoulders and offsets the rear part of the body. This also forces me to look in the right direction.
High  outside elbow will force me to lean the bike.
I will not forget to adjust the speed before I do all of the above because...I really don't want to fall!

So new mantra is again

Belly Button- High outside elbow- and as of May 11, 2012  Dynamic pedals

Granny ring vs Middle ring

Disclaimer: These tips are for the blog author, pls seek professional instruction as this sport may be dangerous!


By trial and error I came up with the following:

Granny chain ring- good for climbing steep terrain where one is likely to sit all the time. This gear does not provide "torque on demand" if you stand up and it is ideal for obstacles of the type "if you stand you rear wheel will spin".

Great to use on a very steep terrain with the SECOND biggest ring in the back! You would likely to sit or hover over your seat.

Middle chain ring- good with tall obstacles where one will coordinate pedal push with a partial or full standing up motion. Also ideal for moment where short "torque on demand" burst is needed (e.g. to roll over a tall rock or root on otherwise relatively flat terrain).

Great with the BIGGEST or SECOND BIGGEST ring in the back.

WET CONDITIONS:

If the obstacle is not super steep and it is WET, I use the middle ring up front and SECOND BIGGEST in the back to avoid back wheel spinning. (during dry conditions, the BIGGEST ring in the back can be used).

For greater cardio-use middle ring up front (except for very steep terrain) and the BIGGEST or SECOND BIGGEST ring in the back.

For smooth (no bursts of energy) riding and a bit less cardio- use the granny ring up front and the BIGGEST or SECOND BIGGEST ring in the back.

Welcome to IgorBikingTheMountain blog!

Disclaimer: These tips are for the blog author, pls seek professional instruction as this sport may be dangerous!

Hello,

I am a MTB novice. Just like many of us out there and who are a bit shy to ask experienced people for some advice....
It is great that there is such opportunity as learning XC Mountain biking on North Shore, probably the best place on earth to do it.


Why create this blog? I have felt intimidated for a while by seeing all those expert bikers who look like gatekeepers of very useful insider information about this sport.

In this blog I will try to share bit by bit what I learned about riding, bike setup, obstacles, etc, providing some information that may be interesting for other beginners (and myself too!)
The information (often anecdotal in nature) is gathered from conversation in bike stores, my own trial and error experiments and from often serendipitous conversations on the trail with other bikers.

Take it with the grain of salt and seek professional advice as what works for me may not work for you! This sport can be dangerous so always use professional help!
All information is based on the author's personal experience and therefore is subjective in nature!